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1 Carpet Yarns
For the manufacture of carpets a full handling thread is necessary, the fibre must be strong and suitable for dyeing in bright colours. The wools mostly used are Scotch black-faced. East Indian, the lower qualities of English and Colonial wools. These yarns are usually spun on the worsted principle, and are carded, open drawn and flyer spun. Some are combed, but when the thread is required to have filling characteristics this operation is omitted. For Brussels and tapestry carpets. East Indian and Scottish black-faced wools are used. Wilton and Axminster carpets are usually made from Welsh or Down wools. -
2 Boudoir Carpet
A reversible, plain weave, union carpet made of worsted and cotton yarns. They are very heavy and firmly constructed. The warp is arranged 1-end 2/30's cotton (as binder), 1-end of coarse cotton (as wadding), 1-end 2/30's cotton binder, set 18 to 20-ends per inch. The wefts are 1 pick 2/5's crossbred worsted, 1 pick 8 skeins, bi-fibred yam and 1 pick 2/5's worsted, 24 picks per inch. -
3 Romsley Carpet
Carpets of the Kidderminster type. The designs are based on the " key " figuring principle. Two wefts are used for figure and another for stitching or binding. Strong and thick folded yarns are used for the ground and wool weft for figuring. The carpets are reversible. -
4 Mobile Cotton
A variety of American cotton rather short in staple, dirty and soft. It is usually used for mixing with waste for the spinning of yarns for sponge cloths, lamp wicks, rug and carpet yarns, etc. The better qualities make good yarns for weft in cheap raising cloths, especially when mixed with some of the East Indian varieties, in counts up to 20's. -
5 Mexican Wool
This wool is mostly used in the Western States of America for yarns made into " home spun " fabrics. In the Eastern States it is used for carpet yarns. It is very coarse and is yielded by sheep in Mexico, Texas, Arizona and Colorado. The fleece weighs about 2-lb. -
6 Argali Wool
Obtained from the Siberian sheep of this name. It is long and hairy and used for carpet yarns. Usually dark greys. The Argali sheep is also found in other parts of Asia and in America, and is a wild or mountain type (Ovis Ammon) -
7 Carpets
The principal types are Axminster, Brussels and Wilton, and brief particulars of each are given below. A more detailed description is given under each name. Axminster is a cut fabric made any width and with any number of colours. It is not produced on a jacquard, therefore the pile does not show on the back. The design is developed by a series of tufts which are bound into the fabric, every tuft is on the surface and only the foundation cloth is seen at the back. There are two principal varieties of these carpets, the Chenille Axminster and the Machine tufted Axminster. The Chenille type is made by two distinct operations, that of manufacturing the chenille weft and that of weaving the carpet with this weft. The " fur or chenille is first woven on an ordinary loom (see chenille) and when cut into the strips is used as weft with a linen, jute or folded cotton warp. The chenille is made preferably with the leno way of shedding in order to bind the wool yarn more firmly. All the figuring weft is on the surface and not embedded in the fabric. The chenille weft is often inserted by hand, but several mechanical methods for doing the work are now in use. From three to six tufts per inch are usual. The chenille Axminster Carpet is also known as the Patent Axminster carpet. The machine-tufted type or Royal Axminster is also formed from pile tufts previously prepared and afterwards woven in the ground warp and bound into the fabric with a binding weft. The tufts may be inserted by hand and the pile is all on the surface of the fabric. This pile is a warp product, whereas for the chenille variety it is weft. Axminster carpets are a product of skill and patience and any number of colours can be used. There are several varieties of machine-made axminster carpets. Wilton is a cut pile fabric woven 27-in. wide from not more than six colours, the yarns are fine counts and design produced by jacquards. Brussels is made almost in the same way as a Wilton, but the pile is not cut and this shows as loops on the face. The yarn is much coarser than for Wiltons. Kidderminster - A carpet made from two or more plain cloths woven together. Each cloth is brought on the face for figuring as required. Turkish - These are hand made. The pile is put into the ground warp by hand as tufts and knotted round them according to pattern. There are two picks of ground weft between each row of pile. Tapestry - Carpets woven from printed warps. The pile is cut or left uncut as required for the design. Persian - Carpets similar to Turkish, being hand made. See also Axminster, Brussels, Kidderminster, Persian Tapestry, Turkish, Wilton Carpets, Body Brussels, Brusselette, Ingrain. -
8 Skinner, Halcyon
[br]b. 6 March 1824 Mantua, Ohio, USAd. 28 November 1900 USA[br]American inventor of a machine for making Royal Axminster and other carpets.[br]Halcyon was the son of Joseph and Susan Skinner. When he was 8 years old, his parents moved to Stockbridge in Massachusetts, where he obtained education locally and worked on farms. In 1838 his father moved to West Farms, New York, where Halcyon helped his father make violins and guitars for seven years. He then worked as a general carpenter for eight years until he was hired in 1849 by Alexander Smith, a carpet manufacturer. Skinner designed and constructed a hand loom that could weave figured instead of striped carpets, and by 1851 Smith had one hundred of these at work. Skinner was retained by Smith for forty years as a mechanical expert and adviser.Weaving carpets by power started in the 1850s on enormous and complex machines. Axminster carpets had traditionally been produced in a similar way to those made by hand in Persia, with the tufts of woollen yarn being knotted around vertical warp threads. To mechanize this process proved very difficult, but Skinner patented a loom in 1856 to weave Axminster carpets although, it was not working successfully until 1860. Then in 1864 he developed a loom for weaving ingrain carpets, and c. 1870 he altered some imported English looms for weaving tapestry carpets to double their output.His most important invention was conceived in 1876 and patented on 16 January 1877. This was the Moquette or Royal Axminster loom, which marked yet another important step forward and enabled the use of an unlimited number of colours in carpet designs. This type of loom became known as the Spool Axminster because of the endless chain of spools carrying lengths of coloured yarns, wound in a predetermined order, from which short pieces could be cut and inserted as the tufts. It put Smith's company, Alexander Smith \& Sons, Yonkers, New York, in the lead among American carpet manufacturers. This type of loom was introduced to Britain in 1878 by Tomkinson \& Adam and spread rapidly. Skinner virtually retired in 1889 but continued to live in Yonkers.[br]Further ReadingBiography, American Machinist 23.Dictionary of American Biography, Vol. XVII.G.Robinson, 1966, Carpets, London (for the history and techniques of carpet weaving).A.Barlow, 1878, The History and Principles of Weaving by Hand and by Power, London (includes a section on pile weaving which covers some types of carpets).RLH -
9 Satranji
Large-sized cotton matting for floor covering. They are made in India from coarse native yarns in blue and white stripes, hand woven, using short horizontal warps, each warp forming one mat. Hemp, jute and aloe fibre yarns are also used as weft. " Satrangi " is the native word in India for carpet, and formerly wool and pile carpets, some of which were ornamented with gold and silver, had this term. -
10 Brusselette (Linen Trade)
A carpet fabric made from coarse jute yarns in any colour or print, plain weave. Many weights are made and any design possible in stripes or checks. Two beams are generally used, one lightly-weighted for the looping yarn and the other heavily-weighted for ground.Dictionary of the English textile terms > Brusselette (Linen Trade)
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11 Camel Hair
The soft downy hair from the haunches and under part of the camel. Length of fibre is 4 in up to 10 in. The yarn is a soft worsted type and much used for carpets, hosiery, hatting, dressing gowns rugs etc. Spun into about 30's counts and then into two fold or three fold yarns. This hair is strong and soft and of a brown colour, and it is difficult to bleach. Each animal yields about 10-lb annually. The longer and coarser hair is used for belting. Obtained chiefly from China and Russia. On arrival in Bradford the hair is scoured carded and combed, and the tops and noils produced are a regular market article. There is a steady consumption of the long hair in the carpet industry and of the noils in the hosiery and hatting trades. A certain quantity of coarse hair is used in the belting industry, and a smaller amount is used in making waterproof hoods for motor cars. Dyed blends of strong hair and wool are sometimes called camel hair and are sold for making filter cloths and other mechanical services. The best " camel's hair brushes used by artists are said to be made from squirrel tails hair of the camel is almost never used for brushes. -
12 Carisel
A very coarse plain cloth used as a foundation for carpet making Strong and thick cotton or jure yarns, few ends and picks, and in several widths. -
13 Dhurries
Cotton carpet or rugs made flat, that is without pile, from hand-spun yarns, coarse and stout. The warp is formed by twisting together, on the hand wheel, four strands of ordinary undyed yarn. The weft is formed by merely winding together four strands on the " teri " (a long piece of wood on which the weft thread is wound lengthwise, and which serves the purpose of a shuttle). The weft is coloured and produces the design as well as colour of the fabric. They are made in many designs, colours and sizes, particularly in the United Provinces, the Madras Presidency, Bihar, the Bombay Presidency and the Bahawalpur State. It is a popular jail industry in nearly every province in India. Known as " Daris " when woven in a twill weave for use as a tent cloth. -
14 Ingrain Carpets
These are usually 36-in. wide and made from two- or three-fold yarns. This class is the oldest form of machine-made carpet now woven. They are two-ply fabrics, and the pattern is formed by one cloth passing through the other - The two cloths being of different colours. Woven on jacquard looms which have drop shuttle boxes for as many as six colours. They are very expensive, but very enduring, and either side can be used. Scottish or Kidderminster carpets come under this term. -
15 Jainamaz
A pileless cotton carpet used as a prayer mat. In the Central Provinces it is known as Ja-namaz. Very coarse yarns are used. -
16 Jajam
A printed carpet, native woven in India, with coarse cotton and jute yarns. -
17 Jute Fabrics
These are mostly plain weave from coarse yarns, such as known under the following: Bagging, brattice cloth, buckram, hessians, scrims, tarpaulin, sacking, etc. Carpet fabrics are also made for stairs, etc., and twill cloths for matting, sacks, etc. -
18 Oushak Rugs
Wool rugs usually of large size. The medium, long, soft and loose pile is tied in Ghiordes knot. The ground yarns are dyed in strong colours, and a weft is used of the same thickness. Two qualities are woven Yaprack and Kirman. The Yapracks rank with the coarsest classes of carpet, and are woven in two colours only, red and green, or red and blue.
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